96 Hours In Bermuda

September 13, 2023September 15, 2023 / Bookishevy / 2 Comments

We didn’t plan on going anywhere this summer, because summers in NYC are great. We want to enjoy as much of the warm weather in the city as possible before the cold months roll in. But one Thursday morning I woke up with a need for sand between my toes, so I jumped on Expedia and convinced Hildon to go to Bermuda for a long weekend.

Arrival Day: Thursday

Bermuda is only a two hour flight from NYC. We landed around 10:30am local time (they were an hour ahead) and took a taxi straight to Rugged Rentals to pick up our Gem.

Note: Bermuda Governmental policy prohibits gas car rentals on the island and only allows one car per household or family in order to limit fuel emissions and traffic. So, only electric vehicles can be rented by tourists, and it’s not cheap. The Gem costs $160 a day. That price includes taxes, and luckily we were able to charge overnight at our rental.

You could take the bus, but that’s not for people with a limited time on the island. Their busses don’t come as often as the busses in Brooklyn. Our Gem gave us the freedom to do what we wanted.

After picking up our vehicle in St. George’s, we whizzed to our home for the next four days in Warwick Parish. Seven Arches is nestled on a quiet hill. Our accommodation was clean, quaint and most importantly, the AC worked. The TV came with Netflix but we never used it, too exhausted at night after spending all day exploring.

The Great Kiskadee whose serenade can be heard throughout the island. It was comforting. It reminded me of home.

After checking ourselves in, we changed and headed to Horseshoe Bay immediately. By the time we got there the sun was high in the sky and the beach packed with people from the two cruise ships docked at the Royal Naval Yard. Luckily, our rental came with two chairs and an umbrella, which saved us some money. We were in Bermuda in June so, although the sand was about the temperature of the sun, we still had to coax ourselves to fully immerse our bodies into the water. We lounged, ate lunch from Rum Rum Beach Bar and took some great pics before heading home to get dressed for a night out.

Drone shots of Horseshoe Bay and surrounding area.

Our first night was spent at Jazz Nights at the Maree Lounge at The Loren. While The Loren is too expensive for our blood (for now) we were able to spend a lovely night listening to the Tino Martinez Quintent, sipping signature cocktails and noshing on the best sushi Hildon has ever had (high praise from that picky eater).

Friday

We headed to the Capital city of Hamilton and, after getting a quick breakfast of pastries and iced macchiatos, we crossed the street to Town Hall for a walking tour from the city’s Town Crier Ed Christopher. This guy’s been the town crier for decades so he really knows his stuff, and everybody knows him. While giving us the history of Hamilton and Bermuda at large, he stopped to wave at passerby and hail out people who honked their horns as they drove by. At one point, even a former Miss Bermuda greeted him as she walked by. It was a hot day, we were sweating bullets and people started dropping out of the tour. We started with about 15 people and by the time we returned to Town Hall there were less than 10 of us left. The tour is free but tips are accepted. I highly recommend it. Ed has so many stories connected to the history of that beautiful island. And I had no idea Bermuda had no natives when the first British shipwreck occurred in 1609. The sailors found signs of temporary shelter but no permanent structures. When you think about it, it shouldn’t be surprising since it’s Bermuda far away from any other land.

After walking all morning, we were hot and hungry. Since we were already in Hamilton, and it was lunchtime, why not head to the only KFC on the island? KFC is the only American fast food outlet in Bermuda. That KFC has been on Queen Street since 1975 and isn’t going anywhere. And if you’ve been following this blog from the beginning, you should know we try KFC wherever we go, because as Trinis we consider ours KFC connoisseurs.

The KFC on Bermuda is pretty good though.

Bermuda Book Store is just down the street from KFC so I had to browse. They have a decent selection.

We headed to Clarence Cove after lunch and a quick walking tour of our own around Hamilton. Unlike the water at Horseshoe Bay, Clarence Cove was calm. I could have floated there all day. Admiral’s Cave, one of the largest dry caves on the island, is nearby.

Shots of Clarence Cove, Admiral Cave and surrounding area.

Around 2:30pm we headed to two other caves: Crystal and Fantasy. They were the highlight of our trip. They’re cold and wet but so beautiful. Crystal Cave is particularly impressive as it is 120 feet below ground level. Our guide explained how the cave was discovered by mistake when two boys fell in while looking for a lost cricket ball in 1907. I can’t imagine falling into that dark cave as a child.

The darkness the boys experienced.

After our tour, we walked the grounds while eating ice cream from Bailey’s, a parlor right next door.

That night, we headed back to Hamilton after showering and resting a bit. We dined at Devil’s Isle Cafe, where we tried the creole burger, at the owner’s suggestion, and washed it down with rum swizzles, Bermuda’s signature cocktail. We strolled through the streets of Hamilton after dinner and people watched. Hamilton was live that night as people spilled in and out of bars and clubs.

You can’t see it, but there are blackened shrimp in the burger. Hildon said it was the best burger he ever had.

Delicious Rum Swizzles. 😋

Saturday

Ungrateful Diamond, who didn’t even need to be fed.

After buying cat food at a pharmacy and feeding the resident cat Diamond, we headed to Grannies in North Shore Village for the island’s best fish sandwich. The local way is to eat it is on raisin bread with all the fixings, so we asked Granny to hook us up and that she did.

I mean, my gawd. Just look at it.

We devoured our sandwiches and headed to Spanish Point Park to relax. I read a book while Hildon flew his drone to get a better view of the shipwreck nearby (there are over 300 shipwrecks in Bermuda’s waters). In between reading, I watched as families set up tents and grills for a day of fun at the park and chatted with two men who described themselves as avid bird watchers.

When Hildon got enough footage, we drove to St. George’s to take in some sites at the historical town.

We relaxed at Tobacco Bay the rest of the afternoon. When we got there, this nice couple gave us their wristbands so we didn’t have to pay for two chairs and an umbrella. We rented snorkels and chased parrot fish through the rocks. The drinks were good, the music was great. It was a vibe.

We ended the day at Sea Breeze Lounge, where we ate pizza and more sushi. It got a little nippy near the water after sunset, so we didn’t stay long.

Sunday

We started our last full day in Bermuda at the Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse to get some of the best views on the island. Built in 1846, this cast iron lighthouse is only one of two that still exist and offers views of Hamilton and the Royal Naval Dockyard. If you want to climb the 185-step spiral staircase, you have to pay $2.50 to enter. We skipped this as I was not dressed for such a hike.

We had a late breakfast of chopped egg sandwiches from De Island Shack that was amazing. It was basically an egg salad sandwich but it was so much more at the same time. Not pics. We were famished.

Well-satisfied, we set out to find the shipwreck HMS Vixen but took a wrong turn somewhere and stumbled upon the abandoned 9 Beaches Resort. I read the resort was supposed to get a $80M makeover in 2010, but when the funds didn’t come through it was closed. People started squatting in the bungalows but were kicked off the premises in 2017 when one of them burned down. Spooky yet beautiful.

Beautiful/ Eerie

Drone shots of lighthouse, HMS Vixen and 9 Beaches

We made a brief stop at Glass Beach to take pics before heading to the Royal Naval Dockyard.

Drove by a cemetery for convicts. Only counted eight gravestones.

We spent about three hours exploring the historic Dockyard, including learning about the island’s history of slavery at the National Museum, before having fish and chips at Frog & Onion Pub and Restaurant. Bermuda’s only brewpub is situated in the mid-18th century Cooperage in the Dockyard.

The fish needed seasoning. The fries were good. The highlight of the meal was seeing little T’challa sleeping outside our window seat. So precious.

And imagine our surprise when we stumbled upon dolphins in the Dockyard.

We spent the rest of the evening lounging on Long Beach Bay. I loved this beach, because there were mostly locals spending their Sunday afternoon with their families; eating, drinking, listening to music. Kids ran around trying to play with goats a man was herding across the beach to graze on a patch of grass, and there were wild ducks sleeping in the shade or swimming behind us amidst the boats full of people partying it up, as we chilled in the water and took it all in. Couldn’t have spent our final beach day in a better place.

Our last dinner on the island was epic. We went to The Terrace on Front Street in Hamilton and ordered one of their largest plates. There was steak, salmon, baked mac and cheese. I have to describe the plate because I dove right in without taking a pic. But I was so happy after that meal that I fell asleep almost as soon as my head hit the pillow while crickets sang me lullabies.

Departure Day

After dropping off the Gem the following morning, we strolled to St. George’s (without our carry-ons as the staff of Rugged Rentals offered to watch our luggage) and grabbed a quick bite at White Horse Pub & Restaurant before heading back to Rugged Rentals, where the owner took us to the airport. He’s so sweet. He didn’t want us to pay him.

The people of Bermuda are warm and inviting and the weather was absolutely perfect. And since it’s only a short flight from NYC, we will definitely be back for more getaways. The water is warm until mid-October, so it’s not too late to book hour trip.

Martha’s Vineyard

July 27, 2021 / Bookishevy / Leave a comment

I have wanted to visit Martha’s Vineyard for forever. There was always something so glamorous about it, especially when you learn a lot of celebs vacation there. But actually it’s not glamorous at all, which is what I really liked about it.

Getting There

We debated how to get from mainland to the island and decided to just pay the $250 round trip on the ferry. It made more sense than paying for parking and then renting a car on the island. I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but car rental prices have skyrocketed during the pandemic. If you opt to take your vehicle on the ferry, book way in advance at steamshipauthority.com. We booked more than two months in advance. Spots fill up fast. We also wanted to drive straight to the Aquinnah Cliffs Overlook, so the car was needed.

Accommodations

We stayed at Pequot Hotel in Oak Bluffs. We were upgraded to a larger room upon check-in and it was wonderful. I loved this hotel because it’s within walking distance of all the restaurants and the main shopping street, Circuit Avenue. We chose to stay in Oak Bluffs because of the black history of the town. It’s a place blacks have been vacationing for many, many years and was actually a safe haven for blacks. Inkwell Beach, which was just a five minute walk from the hotel, was and is still a popular hangout for blacks. It’s called Inkwell because many black writers vacationed there. Oak Bluffs has a lot of great hotels and inns, but what sold me on Pequot is they serve freshly baked cookies every day at 4:30pm. You just go into the lobby and grab one……or three. They also have wine nights on Fridays with live music on the porch.

The Architecture

I think what I enjoyed most about Oak Bluffs was the historical feel of the buildings. Many of the houses there were built a long time ago. They’re these huge Victorian homes that make you wonder what went on in there. Do you ever look at a house and wonder what the people are doing inside? Look at this one.

They’re either watching Netflix or having a seance. Who knows?

I was very impressed by the gingerbread cottages. It used to be a camping ground for the Methodist church but then they replaced the tents with these whimsical cottages that pull your attention with their vibrancy. You’re immediately transported to another time once you step onto the property. I felt like a total voyeur walking through the camp. I mean, this isn’t some museum. People actually live here and they’re going about their business of cutting lawns and picking up the mail while you walk around taking pick and oohing and aahing at the beautiful colors. They don’t seem to mind, but I would be irritated if I was trying to sleep in on a Saturday and I can hear strangers outside of my bedroom window asking one another to take a pic of them in front of my house.

The Food

I had been studying for the clinical social work license, which I passed on my first attempt, BTW , right up until we had to leave for MV, so I didn’t really have time to make reservations for any restaurants prior to us heading up there. We got lucky with some of the places we were able to eat because of sheer timing, honestly. MV has good grub.

One of the most surprising places where we ate dinner was The Pawnee House. We had to eat at the bar, which is okay with us. We’re not picky. We just wanted food and alcohol, so the bar was perfect. I had the salmon wellington, which was nothing short of amazing, and Hildon had the chicken pot pie, which was also really good because you know I had to try that man’s food. Ladies, why do we do it? For dessert we shared the strawberry shortcake. Just yummy all around. What stood out to me most was the host was also the bartender, waiter, and I later found out that he owned the restaurant and his wife did the cooking. He was so busy, making sure everyone was okay and making drinks. Guys, he even went outside in the pouring rain to pick fresh mint for my Moscow mule. I had to talk to him after that. He explained that he inherited the restaurant from his dad’s side of the family and they were understaffed due to the pandemic. There was an elderly woman sitting at the back of the bar who looked on at him with such pride. She came over and confirmed that she was his mom. She told us we had to come back for brunch but we couldn’t get reservations. If you’re ever in MV, consider brunch at The Pawnee House. I hear it’s amazing. The menu is everchanging because they use local ingredients only. Everything we ate was so fresh.

Speaking of brunch, one place I can absolutely vouch for is Biscuits. BLACK OWNED! Hello. Do yourself a favor and hit up Biscuits at least once for breakfast/brunch. We went twice, okay? Would have gone a third time had it not been for the rain and having to stand outside in that long line to get in. Yes, it’s THAT good. The biscuits and gravy are the best I’ve ever had. I also had the blackened shrimp over cheesy grits. *chef’s kiss* Hildon had the stuffed French toast that was so good that I had it with fried chicken when we went back the second time. This place is great. I highly recommend.

Notice the friend chicken is not in the pic. That’s because I attacked it with both hands the minute it hit the table. Extra crunchy goodness 😋

Every restaurant on MV that serves clam chowder would tell you they have the best but I had it at MV Chowder Company and it is so good. MVCC has great food. The lobster roll was loaded with huge chunks of lobster meat and didn’t have too much dressing, just the way I like it. But the pièce de résistance of the meal was the rum bread pudding. It was orgasmic.

On our third morning on the island, we slept in due to the rain (we love sleeping when it rains) and decided to get breakfast to go at Backdoor Donuts. It’s called Backdoor Donuts because after 7pm they give you the donuts through the backdoor. On Saturday night when we were on our way to dinner, we saw a line of about 13 people standing outside the backdoor of the bakery waiting for their goodies, so we figured it had to be good. Good thing we packed and checked out when we did, because when I for to the bakery the line was almost out the door. I kind of overdid it once I reached the counter.

It took three sittings to finish this fritter.

We then got a call from the ferry company. The rep informed me that the ferry would be leaving from Vineyard Haven instead of Oak Bluffs, so we had to bounce. On the way to the ferry, we drove by Biscuits and were not at all surprised to see a crowd of around 20 people huddled together like penguins, trying to stay warm and dry until that glorious moment their names are called.

The Sites

Apart from the Aquinnah Cliffs, we wanted to explore Chappaquiddick Island. That Friday, otherwise known as the last day we saw the sun that weekend, we took a short ferry ride to the island. We drove toward East Beach, over a little bridge before coming upon a pay booth. We wanted to drive to the Cape Boge Lighthouse and the wildlife refuge, but our lack of planning led to us not being able to get there because our car is not an all wheel drive and you’ll need that if you’re going to drive on the very soft sand on that beach. The elderly couple at the booth said the last thing you want to do is get stuck out there, so we reversed over the little bridge and parked. After we paid $5 each and the man made fun of the fact that Hildon is a Yankees fan based on his fitted cap, I had to take my shoes off to walk on the sand. It was so soft and made walking difficult. We got to the deserted beach and Hildon flew his drone, then we walked back. The lady at the booth said that we should visit the Mytoi Japanese Garden. She said she would phone over there and have them wave the fee since we already paid her, which was very nice. As we were walking back to the car, a large pickup truck with about 8 women in the back was on the way to the lighthouse. I was like that could have been us had we planned better. Maybe next time.

What do you do on an empty beach? Frolic, of course!

This bridge is famous for the Chappaquiddick Incident. Ten Kennedy drove off this bridge in 1969. It resulted in the death of Mary Jo Kopechne, who he was driving home to Edgartown from a party. He got out but left her there and didn’t tell authorities until the next day. Very suspicious.

Mytoi Japanese Graden is a lovely getaway from everything else. It was like another world. I love Japanese gardens. So peaceful.

Then we ended up at the Edgartown Lighthouse, which was lovely. I love lighthouses too. I love the way they look but especially what they represent. I see a Lighthouse and I feel safe. Would love to live in one, honestly.

There were names on the cobblestones surrounding the lighthouse.

We then walked around Edgartown and had lunch at Behind the Bookstore, a lovely outdoor area just behind Edgartown Books, before perusing books in the store. I bought a couple, naturally.

After the ferry ride back we stopped at the Jaws Bridge on our return to Oak Bluffs. It’s actually the American Legion Memorial Bridge, and it connects Edgartown to Oak Bluffs. It was made famous for the movie Jaws, hence its nickname.

I’m a big kid so you know I had to take a ride on the Flying Horses Carousel. It was just a short walk from the hotel.

Built in 1876, it’s the country’s oldest operating platform carousel. It was a huge attraction on Coney Island before it was moved to Oak Bluffs in 1884.

The People

Yes, celebs like the Obamas and the Kennedys vacation on the island but the vibe is very laid back. Mostly everyone wore tees, jeans and cargo shorts. I felt a tad overdressed in my wrap top and flats, but was glad I didn’t pack any heels. That would have been embarrassing. If you want to fit in with the locals and not look like a tourist, keep it super casual. But if you’re like me and love a hint of glam, I say go for it. Nothing wrong with standing out.

The people of Oak Bluffs are so friendly. Coming from NYC it was a huge change. Not saying there aren’t friendly New Yorkers. But the people of OB are genuinely warm. And you get this sense of community. Shopkeepers can be heard catching up with regulars to the island, asking them about their kids and how they’ve been coping during the pandemic. I got the sense that everyone knew everyone.

When It Rains

That Saturday on the island was a complete wash out, but we managed to find some indoor activities. We visited the Martha’s Vineyard Museum in Vineyard Haven. It was fun learning about the history of the island.

I only remember a few things from that visit:

Oak Bluffs has been a getaway spot for blacks for over a century. Many middle and upper class blacks vacationed there and eventually bought homes on the island. Shearer Cottage, founded in 1912 by Charles and Henrietta Shearer, was opened to give blacks a safe haven when vacationing, since not many places on the island welcomed them.

There is this cool interactive touch screen in the museum that shows you how the island was formed thousands of years ago. The first humans to set foot on this land, the Native American Wampanoags, are believed to have done so before it was even an island. And if that is true, they bore witness to the melting glaciers forming streams and cutting through the land. The Wampanoags called the land Noepe, which means “land amid the streams.” The cliffs of Aquinnah, where our stay on the island began, tell a story. Many of the Wampanoags still live in the Aquinnah peninsula, where the cliffs continue to erode.

In 2015, the Gay Head Lighthouse on the cliff had to be moved due to this erosion. It had been in it’s previous spot since 1844. The hope is that it can remain in its new spot for at least another 150 years. You can see in the pic above where it stands now in relation to where it was built.

When British explorer Bartholomew Gosnold landed there in 1602 he called it Cape Cod because of the fish in the vicinity. Some people say he named it Martha’s Vineyard after his mother-in-law, others believe he named it after his daughter. The latter is more believable. LOL!

I was shocked to learn that MV was considered part of NY from 1642 to 1692 when it was purchased by colonial businessman Thomas Mayhew in 1641.

And even more shocking is learning that American Sign Language as we know it today is the successor of Martha’s Vineyard Sign Language. One of the earliest known deaf communities in the United States inhabited the island in the late 1600s.

The island was a booming whaling industry until the American Revolution happened and crude oil became more popular than whale oil.

There is so much to learn about the island at the museum. I highly recommend to my fellow history buffs.

Lastly, I did some shopping on that rainy day. I went to Bunch of Grapes Books in Vineyard Haven and bought even more books. Then back in Oak Bluffs I shopped along the famous Circuit Avenue. I hit up black owned C’est La Vie. This store has everything from MV tees and sweatshirts, which a lot of people were wearing because they didn’t expect it to be so cold. Everywhere I turned around that Saturday I saw sweatshirts. People have smartphones and don’t check the weather. Gift shops made a killing that weekend. And, of course, no trip to MV would be complete without a stop at Murdick’s Fudge. I got some rocky road fudge, peanut brittle and a bag of salt water taffy (my favorite).

When shopping on the island, you will notice they have their own brands. Little cafes and clothing boutiques. There are no Starbucks or McDonald’s on the island, although I did spot a Dairy Queen and they have Shoprite supermarkets. Other than that, everything is unique to the island.

Usually after visiting a place I cross it off my bucket list, but MV, particularly Oak Bluffs, felt kind of like home. The people are so welcoming. I definitely intend to visit again. I doubt I would be able to rent or buy on the island since housing there is 96% above the national average, but a long weekend is just enough for me.

A Winter Wonderland

March 2, 2021March 2, 2021 / Bookishevy / 2 Comments

I turned 40. I still cannot believe I’m a whole 40-year-old. There were times I did not think I would see this age, so I’m beyond grateful. Hildon and I planned to take a joint trip for our 40th birthdays, since we are less than 30 days apart. We wanted to go to Iceland, but the pandemic made quick work of that decision. We are at the point where we don’t even want to leave New York, because it is too much of a hassle to get tested prior to leaving and then getting tested again or possibly having to quarantine, depending on the state. So we opted to simply continue exploring our beautiful state. I use the word exploring loosely, because we went up to Big Indian, which was under two feet of snow. Could not hike in two feet of snow, so decided to just chill in our cottage for those two days, and it was the most relaxing getaway we have ever had.

We stayed at the Full Moon Resort in Cottage 3.

The backyard.

It was divine. Check-in was smooth: you just go to the main house and pick up the envelope with your name on it. It contained the keys to the cabin, instructions like trash pick-up times etc., and a map of the compound, which proved useless because it was blistering cold and all we did was meditate, eat, snuggle, watch TV, and…..other stuff. The cottage looked just as it did on Airbnb and Instagram. But I was most impressed by the heated bathroom floors. More hotels should have this feature. It’s a revelation. Also, the bathroom had a walk-in shower instead of a tub and it had two shower heads so we didn’t have to fight for water. Each cabin also comes with wind chimes, which I thought would annoy me at first but soon became a soothing soundtrack to our stay here. The place was dead quiet except for those chimes.

Listen

Is this not paradise?

Only one thing made me feel uneasy. That window that acts as a headboard.

Don’t get me wrong; waking up and looking back there was delightful. But at night, for someone with a vivid imagination, looking into the pitch black and wondering if someone was back there looking in was a fleeting worry. A part of me wanted to go back there to see if I could see through the window, but there was no way I would go back there at night because I’m a wuss. In the end, I figured I was being paranoid and after a few glasses of wine didn’t care as much. Our second night there, the light on the front porch of cottage 4 lit the back of ours and it was better because I could see the snow and no dark figure lurking. Fear of the unknown is a bitch.

The cottage came equipped with a mini fridge and Keurig but no microwave. My one critique. There was also a Samsung smart TV and we were able to log into Netflix and binge. That first night we watched “Behind Her Eyes.” Have you seen it? I don’t care what the critics say, I enjoyed. And that twist! If you haven’t, I recommend. Just go in with an open mind and remember it’s just a movie and you’ll be entertained.

Before heading up to Big Indian Mountain we stopped at Brio’s in Phoenicia. That’s the place where we ate after our railways trip last summer. We shared a pizza to kill time before check-in. We decided to get huge salads to go for dinner because we did not want to have to drive back into town for the rest of the evening. The food at Brio’s is amazing. We settled in for the night and ate our salads and binged.

The next morning we went to the Phoenicia Diner for breakfast. We went here not expecting to be able to eat in and we were right. The interior of the diner was closed but there was an outdoor eating area with heating lamps that were no match for the wind chill that morning.

Long story short, we ate in the car. Because a. Who can enjoy their food when their fingers are numb? I mean, there were quite a few people there. Some of them had dogs. This one little pomeranian was shivering. I felt so bad for him. And b. Driving 17 minutes back to the cottage would result in cold, soggy pancakes, since there is no microwave in the room. But eating in the car wasn’t bad. I’ve done it countless times before. One time I ate a two piece from Popeye’s while going 70 on the 678.

Anyway, that day we just took pics and snuggled. It snowed on and off all day. I ended up falling asleep and when I woke up and looked through the huge front window all I saw was white. When nature is blanketed in snow it ups the relaxation factor. I fell back asleep again. It was glorious.

We wanted steak for dinner. I googled steakhouses and decided on The Phoenician because it was closest. We did not want to eat indoors. I tried calling to place an order for pickup but there was no reception. Plus, cold steak? Nope. We got dressed and drove down. The parking lot was full. Not a good sign. When we entered, the right side of the restaurant was a little too crowded for my liking. The hostess said they were booked, but to our delight the bar area was empty. I felt safe eating there so we took a seat and had a couple cocktails with our meal. The steak was so tender. People kept coming in and eventually others took seats at the bar, but by then we were wrapping up. That night I laid in bed and stared at a painting on my side of the bed. Could have been the cocktails coupled with the wine we took up there….or the dank gummi worms I took, but it really spoke to me.

It’s called “Homogeneity” by Sara Fimm and it could be yours for $725.

Saying goodbye to the cottage the next morning was rough.

I did not want to leave and head back to reality. It was the coziest getaway we had ever had and I did not want it to end. Seems like most of the people staying there left that Sunday morning. I couldn’t tell by their facial expressions, because masks, but I had a feeling they shared my disappointment of the end of a weekend well spent.

Enjoy Hildon’s drone footage of Big Indian below.

Chasing Waterfalls

December 8, 2020December 8, 2020 / Bookishevy / Leave a comment

TLC sang about waterfalls metaphorically; they warned of the dangers of doing certain things that can lead us to go over a waterfall. And waterfalls can be dangerous, but gosh, they’re so beautiful. In my opinion they’re worth the chase, the hike, the long drives. They’re so powerful. I dare you not to come alive when near one. Every fall, Hildon and I go leaf peeping. This year we decided to head to Niagara Falls and made a couple stops along the way.

Have you ever been on Instagram, scrolling or trolling, and come across something so spectacular that makes you say “I wish I was there.” Of course you have. Who hasn’t? Well, that was me when I saw a photo taken at Watkins Glen State Park. I had never heard of this place so I had to Google it. Turns out it is only four and a half hours from the Bronx. That was our first stop.

We got there minutes to 9am and the main parking lot was almost full. All day parking is $3. That day was unusually warm, so the park had a lot of people. Even Amish families were there. I struggled to get out of bed but was glad we got there early, because when we were leaving around noon the crowds really started coming in.

But take a look.

Letchworth State Park is an hour and a half from Watkins Glen, so we decided to try our luck and see if we could get in that day. That was a no. We got there around 2pm and tried to get in from numerous entrances will long lines, but were told they could not let anyone else in due to COVID measures. So we had lunch and checked into our hotel so we could get a decent night’s sleep to wake up at 6.

We stayed at the Inn At Houghton Creek, about 14 miles from Letchworth. When we arrived at the inn a woman was sitting on the floor of the front porch. She stated that guests can check themselves in simply by signing in at the desk and grabbing the envelope containing keys with their names on it, but since she was still there she checked us in. The first thing you see upon entrance is a table with a giant bottle of hand sanitizer, which we used immediately.

The woman screened us for COVID symptoms and informed us of breakfast options during the COVID era, which included granola bars. We opted out. We settled in for the night after falling into food comas from eating way too much sesame chicken from the China Star restaurant nearby.

That Sunday morning we were sure to wake up by 6 to get ready so we could beat everyone else to Letchworth. We weren’t the only ones with that idea as others started emerging from the inn while we were putting our things in the car. We headed for the Portageville entrance. The parking lot is right under the Genesee Arch Bridge. We got there around 7am. The lot is small so I recommend getting there early if you want to take this route, which I recommend. It starts at the upper falls and then you make your way down to the middle falls and finally the lower falls, which we did not make it to, because we had to leave around midday to drive to Niagara. We intend to go back, possibly next year. When we do we will be sure to dedicate a whole day to explore this amazing park in its entirety. But we spent a great 5 or more hours there and got some great pics and footage. With 17 miles of the Genesee River snaking through its gorges, it’s no wonder this park is known as the Grand Canyon of the East.

At the lookout. A great view of both upper and middle falls.

Check out Hildon’s video of the beautiful fall foliage and a train crossing the Genesee Arch Bridge below.

Breathtaking!

We then headed to the Giamoco, our hotel in downtown Niagara. We arrived a couple hours before check-in. Again, a giant bottle of hand sanitizer is at the front desk. Expect to see sanitizer at hotel desks everywhere you stay. If a hotel does not have sanitizer I would question staying there. The nice front desk clerk informed us that he could not check us in early but if any rooms became available before 4pm he would text. He gave us our parking pass for the lot across the street. We parked the car and took off to find something to eat. The Hard Rock Cafe had a wait of 45 minutes and I did not feel safe eating there by that wait alone. Too many people were coming in and out.

Near the falls are quite a few food trucks with everything from Mexican to Indian food. I wanted something simple, so we had burgers, fries and cokes out in the sun. It was a bit windy that day but it was enjoyable. There were not that many people on the streets due to the pandemic. Near the falls was a different story. It seemed like most people just came for the falls, like we did, and weren’t too interested in doing much else. This was Hildon’s first time to the falls. I had to tell him that the Canadian side has far more attractions and better views of the falls. This would have to do for now, but we plan to go to the Canadian side in the near future…..whenever they let us hard-headed Americans across the border again. We could have gone on a Maid of the Mist tour, but it was too chilly to get soaked. For this same reason we chose not to go to the Cave of the Winds. That is one attraction the American side has that the Canadian side does not, as the Bridal Veil Falls is on our side. I made a mental note to come back during the warmer months so we can take pics right under the falls. Still, it was fun exploring Goat Island and hanging out near Horseshoe Falls. After taking so many pics that my phone died, we returned to the Giamoco and checked in.

The Rapids

Bridal Veil Falls

I made sure to use the hand sanitizer at the desk before and after signing in. While Hildon grabbed the bags from the car I wandered into the bar. There was a lovely lounge area with suede seating in rich jewel tones. I asked the bartender if she gets a lot of customers during the pandemic. She stated that people come in but do not stay long. She also stated that she cannot serve just alcohol and guests have to get appetizers with their drinks. I debated on whether to go back that night and wondered if anyone ordered drinks without appetizers pre-COVID, because I never did.

The hotel has an art deco feel to it, which I love. The room was toasty. We undressed, put on the robes hanging in the bathroom and took a nap. The pillows were so soft, my head sank right in. I imagined that is what it feels like to sleep on a cloud. I woke up refreshed.

We dined at Chill 443 that night. They were operating at 50%. There was hardly anyone in there but we still had to wait for a table to clear so we would not be too crowded. I liked that. We eventually had the margaritas, that I had been craving for months, with mozzarella sticks. The chicken and waffles were okay. Whenever I go into a restaurant and that is on the menu I have to try it. Our waiter stated it was good, but then followed that by telling us if we want the best chicken and waffles in Niagara to go to Dirty Bird Chicken N’ Waffles, a food truck. But alas, we were leaving the next day. I added that to my mental checklist for our return.

After dinner we walked through the ghost town of downtown, back to the falls and tried to guess which color they would be lit up in next.

I feel like this is what hell looks like.

We then returned to the hotel and went up to the 18th floor for panoramic views of the area. There was a family having a party there and we did not want to intrude so we did not stay long.

Took a quick snap of the blue falls before leaving the party.

We decided to forgo breakfast here as well, although it sounded amazing and is delivered to the room to limit physical contact with other guests. We opted to get something to eat at a diner on the way home.

I love getting away and spending time in nature. It re-energizes me. So please, don’t stick to the rivers and the lakes that you’re used to. Get out there and explore. Just wear your mask.

No Flying, No Problem!

November 18, 2020November 18, 2020 / Bookishevy / 2 Comments

One thing this pandemic has taught me is we don’t have to hop on a plane to travel. Forced to find things to do within New York State, I had the most fun discovering what my city and state had to offer that does not require me to be in close quarters with strangers. I took it as a challenge to find and share places to go and things to see within this great state (or nearby states) and show that you needn’t look too far to travel.

Explore a garden

I saw pics of the beautiful Untermyer Park and Gardens on Instagram and was embarrassed to learn it is in Yonkers, just a 25 minute drive from the Bronx. I had to experience it on my own, so we made reservations, which is required to control the flow of traffic during the pandemic. We sent on a sunny Sunday afternoon. Let’s just say it’s a good thing you have to make reservations. Seems like everyone had the same idea that day. It was Labor Day weekend, so I was not shocked. Still had a blast exploring the gardens and taking in the view of the Hudson.

Stroll through a sunflower field

Okay, granted this a bit late for the east coast, because it’s cold and they’re gone until next year. I’m not a sunflower expert, so I don’t know when they peak in other parts of the country. If you know of any fields nearby I encourage you to take a walk through. This was surprisingly therapeutic. There is something about sunflowers that immediately lifts my spirits.

Castle Hill is a charming farm is in Newtown, CT and only an hour from NYC. We got there on the later end of the summer. It was cool so the flowers were a bit droopy, but as the morning went by they slowly began to wake up. If you live on the North East coast and wish to visit a sunflower field, please do not wait until September. They were still so beautiful and I felt much better after my stroll.

Castle Hill’s corn maze is 8 acres and I had every intention of returning for Halloween but did not make it. Every year their maze takes on a different theme and this year they paid homage to the frontline workers who continue to work diligently to save lives during the pandemic. Check is out!

Visit a sculpture park

If you love art but do not want to go into a museum during the pandemic then a sculpture park is perfect for you. We spent Halloween at Grounds for Sculpture in Hamilton, NJ and were impressed. It is about 1.5 hours from the city and we spent four hours there. There is so much to see. Tickets are $18 for adults. Veteran discounts are available. You have to make a reservation online.

Tucked away and almost gave me a heart attack.

Rats is a French restaurant in the park.

Honestly, these photos don’t do the place justice. Every piece is amazing. It was worth the drive.

I’m always on the lookout for more outdoorsy things to do during the pandemic. If you live in or near NYC, do you have any suggestions? And for everyone else, is there somewhere in your city, state, county or village that you would like to try but never considered before the pandemic?

Let me know in the comments 😊

Take a Hike!

November 10, 2020November 18, 2020 / Bookishevy / Leave a comment

We are 8 months into this pandemic and it took me about 3 months into it to realize this thing was not going away any time soon, because people do not know how to follow the science. I have always been one who looks for the positive in any situation, so I took this opportunity to work on my fitness and spend more time outdoors by hiking and walking. In this post I will highlight the great hikes I took throughout the summer and hope to revisit even during the colder months. If you live in NYC each of these hikes is no more than 2 hours away by car.

Take a short walk up Jackie Jones Mountain

And by short, I mean less than 3 miles. This hill was surprisingly tough on my thighs, but it was worth it to climb up the tower for a great 360 degree view of Harriman Park. Parking is on the side of the street.

Tackle Storm King Mountain

This was probably the best hike. It was challenging and in some places were a bit of a scramble, but it was surprisingly enjoyable. 4 miles up and back down. But look at this view. Parking was free in the little parking lot at the bottom of the hill.

Climb up the steep side of Anthony’s Nose

Granted, when we climbed up Anthony’s Nose we thought that was the only way up. I was so proud when we got to the top. This was a straight scramble for half a mile. But all that was forgotten once we got to the top. We took the easier route down. Parking is on the side of the road. We got there around 8:30am so there weren’t that many cars yet. We were shocked at how many cars were there when we were on the way out. Then I crossed the Bear Mountain Bridge nearby. It was amazing.

Hidden Valley Reservation

Not so much of a hike as it was just a lovely way to spend a Saturday morning. We enjoyed this hike because the scenery was so different from all the other hikes. Mostly because it’s a reserve, so there is more of nature. You hear birds and what I swore was a monkey, but was mostly likely a bird, while you walk. It was amazing. Parking is at the side of tue street and there is little to no service in the reserve. But getting to see Thoreau Bridge was worth it.

There’s an outhouse in the middle of the woods.

Spend the day exploring Minnewaska State Park

When we went to this park we had no idea we would be there from 9am to after 4pm, but thank goodness we packed lunch. It seemed like everyone arrived at the same time. There was a long line to enter the parking lots. Seemed liked we all had the same idea. The weather was perfect for exploring the outdoors. This park has 22 trails, some of them heavily trafficked. We did the Millbrook Mountain trail, which was impromptu, but a great workout. We had lunch when we got to the top.

I want to encourage you guys to enjoy your natural surroundings if you want to get out and wish to avoid being around people in crowded spaces. I thought I would miss going to happy hours and grabbing dinner with Hildon. I know there are those of you who are tired of staying in the house. So, lace up your shoes, pack a lunch, and take a hike!

Getting Out During COVID Pandemic

July 25, 2020July 29, 2020 / Bookishevy / Leave a comment

I, like many of you smart people out there, have been staying indoors and away from crowds for over 4 months now. Here in NYC the Covid Curve has flattened and more and more people are venturing outside. This is good. You should be going out and getting fresh air and sunlight (vitamin D is needed now more than ever). All we ask is that you wear a bloody mask. They work. Notice there was no uptick in cases with the protests. Aaahhh the protests. Well, just when you thought 2020 could not get any shittier, cops murder a black man on camera (again) and it takes over a week to get them arrested. The protests are necessary. The masks are necessary. Don’t let anyone tell you differently and don’t be afraid to shame loved ones who STILL think this whole thing is a hoax.

I foolishly thought the curve flattening would be a nationwide effort and we would all be able to have some sense of normalcy by now, but alas. This pandemic is not going anywhere, anytime soon thanks to certain states who took too lightly what was happening in the North East. We have more cases now than we did when this whole thing started, and many world leaders are now realizing that we might be the shithole because of a lack of cohesiveness among our governors. Now, I have no intention of stepping foot on a plane right now, but I cannot stay in the house until 2022(?) So, I have taken to little trips not far from NYC, just to get out of the city and enjoy nature and keep what little sanity I have left. It does wonders.

Enjoy the scenery at Teatown Lake Reservation

Just half an hour from the city, this 1000 acre nature reserve has four lakes and 9 hiking trails. All-day parking is $5 and you need a mask.

Hike up the New Croton Dam

A little less than 40 minutes from the Bronx is a park with picnic tables with a big ass dam next to it. You can chill in the park and take pics in front of the dam, or you could challenge yourself and hike to the top. The view is worth it. Parking without a pass is $10. With a pass, it’s $5. Don’t forget your mask.

Take a tour with Rail Explorers

We had so much fun traveling along the Esopus Creek in the Catskills. It was so peaceful pedaling on the rails, under the trees with the mountains in the distance. There are two types of rides: the tandem for two people ($85) and the quad that can sit up to four people ($150). It’s a great way to spend fun times with your family or friends. Afterwards we had pizza at Brio’s. Well, he had pizza. I had a delicious salad and my first margarita since this whole shit show started, which I was enjoying until a pigeon tried to take a crap on me. I kid you not, it was premeditated. An older gentleman said he saw the whole thing and would testify if need be.

Felt so good to let me cellulite breathe.

I have no clue where we are going next, but I know it’s soon because working from home is frigging stressful (I assure you I am grateful for still being employed) and I need to get back to nature.

Hiking in Niteroi, Brazil

April 27, 2020April 29, 2020 / Bookishevy / Leave a comment

“Are you going to wear that for the climb?” Our tour guide, Lucas*, asked one of my shipmates. The young man is wearing a white buttoned down shirt with black slacks and black leather loafers.

“I like looking my best,” he replied.

“Well, just be careful,” cautioned Lucas. “Some parts of the path are covered in moss.”

A random man in the back of the group yelled, “I don’t know what he was thinking wearing those church shoes.” The group exploded with laughter and all day everyone referred to the young man as “Church Shoes.” No one bothered to ask him his name. U.S. Sailors are petty that way.

We are assembled about a five minute walk away from the foot of Costão de Itacoatiara, situated in Itacoatiara, Niteroi. Niterói is a municipality in southeast Brazil, connected to Rio de Janeiro by a bridge across Guanabara Bay.

It is June 2004 and our ship, the USS Ronald Reagan, has been anchored a mile from shore for the last two days. My liberty buddy Joz* and I decided to take a tour, with a few other Sailors from the boat, to get away from the crowds of Rio.

As we walk toward the hill, I look at the houses in the little suburb. They remind me of the houses in Trinidad. Many of them are high on stilts with long staircases leading up to a porch. I notice that some of the yards have pommecythere trees.

pomme_cythere

Called Cajarana in Brazil

We had one of those trees in the yard of my childhood home too. I am tempted to reach up and grab a fruit that was hanging over the fence — as a Trini this cannot be helped — when I notice spiders the size of puppies suspended in webs twice as large on the tree; on ALL the trees. I look around in horror. There is a woman sitting on the porch as though she is not surrounded by eight legged freaks.

“What in the fuck?” I slowly back away.

Lucas tells me they are not going to jump on me and that I should relax, but I swear I see uncertainty in his eyes as I feel something brush against my leg. I speed up ahead of the group as we begin our climb.

We are halfway up when my legs start aching, and my breathing becomes labored. Just as I am about to stop for a break, a man, his wife and their two small children breeze pass me, laughing and talking as though they are taking a leisurely stroll in Central Park. The mother is carrying a baby in a pouch and the entire family is not wearing shoes. Lucas senses my shame and explains that they hike daily.

I am pleased to at least be doing better than Joz, who is currently sitting on a rock, drinking water. Suddenly, she springs to her feet when she spots a young Brazilian woman briskly walking up the hill. She is wearing a yellow thong bikini and hiking boots. In any other country that outfit would not make any sense. I stare in amazement at her Disc man precariously hanging on the string of her bikini bottom. It seems like it would give away at any moment. All the men stop and wait for her to pass so they can get a good look at her derriere as she continues her ascent. A little motivation I suppose. To them, the beauty of the landscape is no match for a perfectly rounded Brazilian bottom. One woman gives her husband an elbow to the rib as he gawks shamelessly. It is as though he forgot his wife is present. He closes his mouth and resumes climbing while looking at the ground the rest of the way; trying desperately not to make his eyes rest on the young woman’s backside. His wife side eyes, waiting for him to slip.

I am almost to the top when I notice Church Shoes is one of the first people to make it there, despite his poor choice in footwear.

Finally at the peak, I can barely breathe. I put my hands on my knees and gasp for air, silently vowing to hit the gym more often. (I make this vow often).

As you can see, that hike kicked my ass.

“You guys are lucky it is clear today,” says Lucas. “On some days you cannot see anything.”

Christ the Redeemer in the distance.

I look down the hill to see Joz sitting on yet another rock. I ask if she is coming up and she yells back that she is good right where she is.

It is noon and the sun beats down on us. In the distance, boats sail and people sunbathe on the beach. On the other side of the hill, the water beats against jagged rocks. To my surprise, there is a man sitting on a stool near the slippery edge, fishing as though a wave could not sweep him away. After taking pictures, Lucas announces that it was time to head back to the beach for lunch.

Church Shoes takes in front. He is practically running down the hill. I am right behind him as Lucas yells for us to slow down because of mossy patches.

I stop to tell Joz about the views she missed due to her laziness, when Lucas calls our attention to a particular kind of cacti that is supposedly only found in Brazil. Joz and I look back toward the bottom of the hill to see Church Shoes is gone. The only thing we notice is the moss, which looks like someone slipped on it.

“That does not look good.” Joz says, barely containing her excitement.

We disregard Lucas, who is yelling at us to stop running, and bolt down the hill and through the trees. We find Church Shoes sitting on the ground looking startled. He explains that he slipped and slid down the hill.

I help him to his feet only to find that the seat of his freshly creased trousers is shredded leaving his boxers partly exposed. They are green with a sail boat pattern. Joz snickers. I try not to laugh as Church Shoes tries to survey the damage. He spins around like a dog trying to catch its tail. Joz howls with laughter when she notices the heel of one of his loafers is worn down and now he stands lopsided.

“What happened here?” Lucas asks.

Everyone is in stitches as they gather around the poor fellow. I hand him a beach towel from my backpack so he can wrap it around his waist. He hesitates then throws it over his shoulder.

“I warned you about those shoes,” Lucas says.

He shakes his head trying to stay professional. His shoulders tremble under his attempts to avoid laughing. Church Shoes limps ahead of the group as everyone chuckles behind his back. An elderly woman, who lives nearby, walks pass him slowly. Her eyes widen at the sight of his muddy pants. She shakes her head slowly. The group erupts with laughter. For the first time I do not think about spiders leaping off of trees and unto my shoulders. Although Joz reluctantly gives me a once over before we board the bus.

We walk into the restaurant, a large, open, hall-like eatery that leads straight to the beach. To Church Shoes’ dismay it is packed with people. Using his finger nails, he scratches out spots of dirt from his pants then wraps my towel around his waist. The other patrons stare at us as though we are a herd of cattle migrating through the restaurant. Their eyes mostly fixated on Church Shoes as he hobbles and drags the shoe with the eaten up sole across the floor. He bows his head in order to avoid making eye contact. A little girl tugs at her brother’s shirt, points at Church Shoes and says, “Veja.” The two children giggle as their parents look at him with pity.

As we take our seats at the table he sighs in relief that the walk of shame was over for now and he would not have to do it again until it is time to leave.

“Actually, you have to get the sides yourself,” I inform him with a grin.

I point to the spread with my head. He asks me to bring him a plate.

“Nope.”

I make my way to the food. It smells delicious. This is my first experience at a Brazilian restaurant. I fill my plate with steamed cassava and salad and return to await the meat that will be brought to our table. The waiter explains that our coasters have two sides: when the green side is up they will continue to bring an assortment of meats to the table. They will keep bringing meats until the red side is visible. I have not eaten all day and after that hike I am famished. Needless to say I have my fill of roasted pork, beef tenderloin and chicken and sirloin wrapped in bacon. The knife cuts through the meat like butter. Church shoes only eats meat because he refuses to get up for anything else.

After lunch, we retreat to the beach for a lazy afternoon and make plans to go to a club that night. Church Shoes tell us his real name and promises to return my towel after it is washed.

A food coma before my swim.

* Denotes a name change.

A Weekend In Vermont

October 31, 2019March 2, 2021 / Bookishevy

I have been wanting to go to Vermont during the fall months for years. That year we went to Montreal, we were initially planning to go to Vermont, but instead drove through it on the way to Montreal, which turned out to be one of our best trips ever. But from what we saw during our drive through I knew we had to spend time in Vermont eventually. Before we left for our trip, I googled what kind of African American history we could learn about while in Vermont; something I plan to do whenever I visit other states. I honestly was not expecting much because Vermont’s population is only 1.1% black. But to my surprise I stumbled upon Rokeby Museum in Ferrisburgh, which is about an hour west of our destination, Stowe.Rokeby is on what used to be the Robinson estate and an Underground Railroad shelter for runaway slaves. We got a tour of the old Robinson house and saw where the runaway slaves slept.

The guide said that the saying “Sleep tight” comes from when people used rope beds like this one. The ropes had to be tightened to make the bed firmer.

Stepping into the house the smell of history just hits you. It’s not a bad smell. Just an old smell. Bearable though. And impressive.

These people saved everything. I mean they weren’t hoarders. The place is “well put away” as we say in Trinidad. Everything thing is in its place. The patriarch saved all the magazines his illustrations were in and they have hundreds of books, which don’t make me feel so bad about not wanting to sell my books. I no longer feel bad about saving anything. Artifacts are important to a family’s legacy. Anyway, even Frederick Douglass stayed in that house.

He sat at this table.

There is also an exhibit on right now called Free & Safe: The Underground Railroad In Vermont, which brings to life the stories of two fugitives of slavery, Jesse and Simon. They found shelter at Rokeby in the 1830s. I recommend this museum. It was worth the detour. Here are some photos of the grounds.

On our way to Stowe we stopped at Lake Champlain so Hildon can fly his drone. Lake Champlain is gorgeous and I was trying to remember where I know that name from. But of course! It was the name of a ship in the Navy. Three ships actually.

When we finally got to Stowe we only had a little over an hour to take the gondola ride up Mount Mansfield, because we had to get on line to go back down by 4pm. This ride is why we came to Stowe and we almost missed it. We booked tickets for that day and I was worried, but so many people showed up after we got in line. And who can blame them. The views were spectacular. Just look.

If you want to go on this ride, you will have to wait until June. The season ended October 20th. Just go to https://www.stowe.com/explore-the-resort/activities-and-events/gondola-skyride.aspx

When we got to the top, some 15 minutes later, we took pics for a few minutes and after seeing the line for the gondola decided to walk down the mountain. Yes, you read that correctly. We walked down a mountain. Because walking down a mountain has to be better than waiting in a line. Nothing is worse that waiting in a line. We are New Yorkers and we do not wait. And I know what you are thinking. Wow! Cool. They walked down a mountain. What a brave, read: stupid thing to do! Halfway down Mansfield my knees and toes were regretting that decision. Why? Why did I think I could do this? Little kids were rushing pass me. They were running down that steep ass hill. How? Gravity was working overtime on my ass. Then I saw this man climbing up. Talmbout he walks up and down that damn mountain three times a day. And he’s 54. First of all, sir, who asked you?

I fell on my ass twice. The first time Hildon didn’t even see. He was too busy flying his drone. Then he walked up to me and asked if I fell after he saw all that mud on the seat of my pants. I said no. I sat and dragged my ass down the hill on purpose. After the second fall, I just laid there and asked Hildon to roll me down the hill. “That would look ridiculous,” he said, as he walked down sideways like a crab. He wasn’t the only one trying all kinds of tricks to make the hike more bearable. This one couple passed us walking backward. As they got ahead of us, the lady looked me in the eyes and said this is the worse decision she had ever made in her life. Agreed! But we were already more than half way down and it’s not like we could hitch a ride. And what killed me is that empty gondolas were passing us down the hill. I could have been in one of those. With about a quarter mile left I told Hildon to save himself and send help when he reached civilization. I was prepared to pitch camp and build a tent with what branches and twigs I could find. Thankfully, Hildon found a track that would make the hike longer but easier on my toes. We got to the bottom at 5:15pm. An hour and a half that took. Never again! Although I did have this sense of pride that I just hiked down a freaking mountain. Hildon had to wipe me down with a bottle of water and a rag so I could look presentable for dinner, because I told him if we go to the room to freshen up before eating I would not come back out for the rest of the night. I made a promise to myself that I would start working out again, because it made no sense how much that hike kicked my ass. My legs were done. But on our way to the restaurant we saw Smugglers Notch State Park and guess what? We hiked to the waterfall. I figured, I’m already in pain. What’s one more 20 minute hike. But it was worth it.

For dinner we went to the vonTrapp Brewery and Bierhall. If you’re like me and don’t miss out on the airing of The Sound of Music every Christmas, then you would know that after fleeing Nazi occupation of Austria by going to Italy (in the movie they fled to Switzerland because it was more dramatic) and touring Europe as The von Trapp Family Singers, they toured through the US before settling in Vermont. This restaurant and their family lodge is owned by the youngest son Johannes. I had to eat here. The wait was more than an hour but we ordered beer and ate warm pretzels served with homemade spicy and sweet mustards. We had burgers and fries because we deserved it after that hike. Then we walked about and took in the decor and snuck into the brewery to take picks.

We did not get to our airbnb in Waterbury till after 9pm and our host, who kept in contact with me throughout the day, was there to greet and welcome us into his beautiful townhome. The place was so quiet. Outside was pitch black. A far cry from Brooklyn. John’s place is immaculate. He has a beautiful shower with a jetted tub and quality body washes and lotions by Ursa Major, a Vermont brand. The bed was so comfy. I’ve left the link so you could look into booking it if you’re ever in Stowe.

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/22716258?location=Waterbury%2C%20VT%2C%20United%20States&source_impression_id=p3_1572493212_dlifuQD1CJUWtI9a

A view from the bedroom window.

We awoke at 7am and as I struggled to lower myself on John’s toilet I made a promise to myself that I would start working out again, because it made no sense how much that hike kicked my ass. My legs were done. We left John’s at 8:30 the next morning and ate at Maxi’s Restaurant about 5 minutes away. I had the Belgian waffle. The waitress suggested I get the whipped cream and strawberries but they weren’t fresh. Still, a healthy serving of eggs and home fries made up for that.

It looked pretty though.

We then hit the road to Manchester two and a quarter hours away. We stopped a couple times for Hildon to fly his drone. The scenery was just out of this world. I don’t blame Hildon for wanting to stop and capture all those colors. And we weren’t the only ones. No one could resist pulling over and snapping a pic. Because in a few more weeks it would be gone.

Emerald Lake was one of those stops. I mean…..

I just sat there and gazed. It was so tranquilizing, even with screaming kids nearby. And the facilities are great. There are toilets and changing rooms. One of the commodes had shit on the seat, but that’s not the park’s fault. People are just gross.

We then took the Mount Equinox Skyline Drive. The longest privately owned paved toll road in the USA at 5.2 miles with an elevation that increases to 3,235 feet. You have to purchase a token at a toll house at the bottom of the mountain. The cashier gives you list of rules to follow, like don’t drive faster than 10 miles an hour and when coming back down DO NOT RIDE YOUR BRAKES. You think people listened? The air reeked of burned brakes and clutches. One girl’s zipcar was leaking. She pulled away from one of the rest stops and left a huge wet spot. I hope she and her friend made it home alright. That view though.

Driving into Manchesta was surreal. You know you hear about cities and you think New York, LA, Chicago. Manchester is not any of those. It’s quaint. No skyscrapers. Just refurbished old buildings. Many of them outlet stores. So if you’re ever in Manchester, you can do some real damage to your credit. The outlets are not all in one place, though. They are scattered all over so wear comfortable shoes. But you know as cute as the shops looked, they were still just outlets and we have those in NYC. What we dont have is a bookstore that used to be an inn over a hundred years ago. Northshire Bookstore used to be Colburn House but is now a 10,000 square foot bookstore.

I went there to get a copy of The Water Dancer by Ta-Nehisi Coates, but the minute we stepped into the store I realized there was no way I could just grab a book and get out. The place is amazing. I had to explore. And they encourage browsing. The store’s is layout fosters exploration so that’s what we did. Plus Water Dancer was $28, almost double what it goes for at Barnes & Noble. I had to find something to buy there and after a bit of roaming ended up getting these

I almost bought this book……

….but I would have probably used it for more evil than good so I decided not to go that route. This place is amazing and if you like books I recommend. After that we walked around town and took pics…

First Congregational Church

…and decided on what to eat for dinner before heading to the bed & breakfast. We stayed at Bromley Inn in Winhall, a 15 minute drive from downtown Manchester. The inn is right on highway 30 but the reviews were so good and the price was right so we could not resist. The woman at the front desk was welcoming and showed us to our room. Does this hallway remind you of a certain horror film?

I kept expecting twin girls to appear.The room was updated, though. The red wall gave it a little edge. I kept imagining that they painted it red to cover up blood splatter.

Fun times. (I watch too much horror movies)

We dropped our bags, relaxed for a bit and went out to dinner. We ate at Thai Basil. We did not make reservations so we sat at the bar and watched the Jets vs Patriots game while noshing on shrimp spring rolls, dumplings and drunken noodles. Everything was delicious and I do not have pics because I was too hungry to delay. The place was packed for a Sunday night. We sat next to a local who was yelling at the Patriots. When we returned from dinner, we had new neighbors and could hear everything they were saying through the walls of our rooms. I was worried because I have a sensitivity to noise, particularly at night. But the place was dead quiet after 10pm. After a good night’s rest, we enjoyed a complimentary breakfast at the inn, which made up for the creepy hallway.

These french toasts were so good. The chef, whom locals were calling Mike, came over and greeted us and asked how everything was. Everyone was so charming. I love the decor of the dining area. Just look.

So cute.

After breakfast we took pics of the inn….

Yes, that is a Christmas tree.

….and surrounding area.

Beautiful 4K drone shots.

Vermont just has spectacular views no matter where you are. It was breathtaking. We took it all in on our way back to NY. If you like leaf peeping as much as we do, I recommend Vermont for your next fall foliage destination. Just please take the gondola down.

Whale Watching Off the Rockaways

July 31, 2019July 31, 2019 / Bookishevy / 2 Comments

I love whales. They are my second favorite large mammal after elephants. New York used to have a large whale population but they were hunted for their meat and blubber to make oils and many of them were driven off due to pollution. But thanks to the conservation efforts of Gotham Whale, our waters are cleaner and there were been hundreds of whale sightings in 2018 alone. Hildon and I used to go whale watching in Boston, but now that more whales, dolphins and seals are in our area in the summer months we do not have to drive four hours to see them.

The whales come to our waters to feed and then go to the Caribbean in the winter. I am spreading the word because a lot of people do not know that the Rockaways are a great whale watching destination. American Princess Cruises have partnered with Gotham Whale to help educate people on whales while on their whale watching tour. This weekend was our second time on this cruise and we were able to spot two humpbacks, one of which was a completely new whale that had not yet been documented. Hildon got a great shot of the tail, which was used to determine we had a new whale on the block.

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Whale watching is a lot of work. You will be running from port to starboard to bow to stern and everywhere in between trying to get a glimpse. On our way out 20 miles off the coast, everyone on the ship is chatting and laughing until the first whale is spotted. Then it is silent. Except for children asking questions, no one makes a sound. Everyone is on whatever side of the boat the captain said he spotted a humpback, waiting with cameras and phones already recording. One lady was complaining that we were blocking her view. I turned and told her, “Ma’am, you gotta be quicker than that.” When the captain says he sees one you have to move, because whales are fast. At one point the port side of the boat was leaning into the water from the weight of everyone waiting for the whale to come up for air. It is intense, suspenseful and positively thrilling, especially when you get a great shot.

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That day the whales swam alongside us and we were able to get shots of their backs and tails. But if you go to American Princess Cruises’ Facebook page you will see great shots of the whales breaching.

If you live in New York City or are visiting or plan on visiting, I encourage you to book a tour with American Princess Cruises. They go until November and set sail from Wednesday to Sunday.

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Two Traveling Trinis

This is a travel diary.