Chasing Away Spirits in Trinidad

I don’t like scary movies. I especially avoid the ones having to do with spirits. I really want to see Crimson Peak because I love Guillermo del Toro, but the preview gave me chills. Plus Stephen King said it terrified him so I know for sure my nerves would be unable to deal with the content if the king of the horror genre couldn’t handle it. And it’s not because I’m just a coward. I mean I am a coward. I’m not ashamed to admit that. <_< But mostly because I have had experience with spirits. Coming from a small village in Trinidad, I have heard my share of scary stories about people’s encounters with the spirit world while growing up, but I always consoled myself by saying they’re just folk tales. One afternoon that all changed.

It was Saturday. I got home from first communion class to find everyone huddled around the kitchen table, which made me question why I had to be the only one of the cousins to be Catholic. My Saturdays were screwed for months. But I digress. They were all so quiet, something that is not synonymous with being a Trini — or a Richardson. I asked who died, then I heard my mother say, “He here.”

My mother looked the most serious I had ever seen her. Apparently my grandmother thought it was a good idea to hire an obeah man to get rid of a spirit in the house. Lately the floorboards had been creaking more frequently and keeping her awake. Back then I slept like a log and heard nothing, but my uncle convinced me it was just the wind blowing through a very old house. I accepted his explanation for years — even though it made no sense because where we lived was rarely windy. I just didn’t want to believe it was anything else.

A heavyset man and his wife, both of East Indian descent, cautiously made their way through our living room and into the kitchen. Their eyes took in everything as though they were contractors inspecting a house. The man spoke briefly to my grandmother and made his way to the kitchen table where we were all gathered.

“I doh want to be here for dis,” I said. “I going next door.”

“Nobody leavin dis house.” He glared at me as he said this, sternly.

“If anybody leave, and de spirit is in DAT person, I would do my ting and dey would come back WIT de spirit. And all dis woulda be for nothing.”

I grew tense. My mother thought I was just a skeptic, but I was actually scared out of my wits.

My cousins and I sat solemnly as the man mopped the entire house with a concoction his wife threw into a bucket of hot water. We just wanted to watch TV for fucks sakes. That was so not how I expected my Saturday evening to go. The man then drew a symbol behind my grandmother’s bedroom door, which led to the front porch.

devils_trap_by_pandora_gold

Very similar to this.

He said it was to keep whoever it was from reentering. O_O He dug a hole at the bottom of the front steps, grounded heads of garlic into it, and buried it. After he lit a candle and put it on a plate at the bottom of the step, he rejoined us at the table and proceeded to pray over us.

He prayed for what seemed like an eternity. I sat there, bored as hell, and tried to repress my eyes from rolling. Suddenly the house began to shake. At first I thought it was my imagination. I thought maybe one of my nervous cousins was shaking a leg under the table. But the shaking became more pronounced. Everyone’s eyes shifted toward my grandmother’s bedroom. Something. Someone was frantically running around as if they were looking for a way out. Doors trembled. I trembled as I dug my nails into my mother’s thigh.

Then my grandmother’s bedroom door flung open. My aunt Elsa, someone I often thought to be fearless, gasped as her eyes widened in disbelief. She yelled, “LOOK!”

We rushed to the front porch and heard footsteps running down the stairs. My uncle hollered as the plate which held the candle split in half, as though it had been stepped on by whoever it was leaving the house. And they were gone. Everyone returned to the kitchen. We sat there, trying to make sense of what had transpired. My grandmother was the only one who looked unfazed. She never moved from her chair.

“Da is it,” the man said, matter-of-factly. He and his wife started packing up.

“What happen?” Elsa needed answers.

“Whoever it was wasn’t evil,” he said. “Dey didn’t mean no harm. Was just being a pest.”

My grandfather’s dead body was the only one that had ever been in the house since it was built decades ago. The obeah man said the spirit was definitely male, because he felt a great presence. There was a good chance it was him. So all of the times I felt someone tug at my clothes while I played with my toys on the floor of my grandmother’s bedroom; all those times I felt someone sit at the foot of my bed just as I was falling into a deep sleep, it could have been him. I never talked about those experiences because I believed talking about it would somehow make it real. By ignoring it I was able to restrict it to my mind and simply say I was just tired and feeling things.

No one complained about the house creaking after that evening. I guess he never came back. I migrated to New York City and joined the Navy soon afterwards. Ten years later, a few weeks after being honorably discharged, I was on my way to meet my boyfriend at his job so we could catch a movie. It was a beautiful April afternoon. The sun still shone brilliantly and the air was crisp. I window shopped on 5th Avenue with a goofy grin on my face. It was the first time in years that I felt free. As I strolled through the busy sidewalk, I felt a tug on the back of my jacket sleeve and turned around expecting to be greeted by an old friend, only to see jaded New Yorkers going about their business.

“Hi, hun.” My boyfriend snuck up behind me as I stared into the crowds. “You okay?”

“Yeah.”

“You sure?” He was genuinely concerned. Guess I needed to work on my poker face.

“I’ll tell you about it later.” I never did.

Still, I fantasize about being able to watch a movie about wandering spirits without losing much sleep. But I know I won’t be able to do so without wondering if one of them followed me home.

Trini KFC or Bust

The only people who ask “What’s the big deal with the KFC in Trinidad?” are the ones who have never eaten Trini KFC. Kentucky Fried Chicken opened its doors to Trinis in 1973 and since then the Colonel has remained king with 54 locations nationwide. During the Carnival season, when tourism is at its highest, the lines for all the KFC restaurants pour out onto the streets, but everyone would say it’s worth the wait. Trinis love spicy food, so we added some of our own spices to the original recipe, put some heat to the crispy recipe, and it’s a hit with visitors. I always assumed that all Kentucky Fried Chicken were created equal, because I had never eaten it anywhere else besides my homeland. This changed when one of my friend’s cousins came to Trinidad one summer and they took him to KFC straight from the airport.

“How is it so good?” His finger licking reminded me of the franchise’s motto.

“Grenada doesn’t have spicy?” I asked.

“It’s spicy but not like this”, he said. “I want to eat this everyday.”

And he did. He took a bucket of our spicy chicken to Georgetown to share with his family and friends. I laughed at him, not knowing that years later I would be doing the same.

When I first tried KFC in the United States — and realized the crispy chicken was not spicy — I went through four of the five stages of grief.

Denial: “No”, I said. “This is not KFC!”

Anger: “You call this fried chicken?”

There was no bargaining, because I realized they could not do any better.

Depression: “This is just sad!”

And finally, acceptance: “I’m never eating KFC again.”

Americans always find it strange when they hear of Trinis bringing KFC into the U.S. But it is so common a practice that security officers at the Piarco International Airport don’t bat their eyes over boxes of fried chicken going through the x-ray machines.

I always try the KFC in other countries to see if it comes close to Trinidad’s – or if it’s at least better than America’s, which wouldn’t be hard. I lived in Europe for two years before I saw KFC for the first time. I was strolling through Old Town Square in Prague and suddenly started acting like a dog seeing its owner for the first time in years. I was so giddy with excitement that I was almost hit by a cab while running across the street to the restaurant. I had on my KFC blinders. The cab driver yelled something at me in Czech as he shook his fist through the window in anger, but I could not care less…because KFC. When I saw that they offered spicy chicken an unexpected squeal escaped my lips. I ordered a two piece meal and ran to my hotel so I could pig out without the disgusted stares of other patrons. The Czech version was more seasoned than the American and came close to the Trinidadian KFC. I went back the following day and bought a five piece meal to take back to Italy. When the female security guard at the airport found the box of chicken in my carry-on she looked at me like I had on clown makeup.

A year later I flew to Munich and was delighted to find a KFC close to my hotel in the downtown area. I ate my fair share of bratwursts that day, but I had to taste it. I took it back to my room and called my boyfriend — a fellow Trini and KFC snob — on Skype.

“I can’t believe you’re in Munich…eating KFC”, he said.

“Don’t act like you wouldn’t do the same”, I replied. “It’s pretty good.”

“Hot like ours?” He licked his lips.

“It’s closer to ours than the Czech’s.”

“I’m jealous.”

A month later I flew to London for a family visit. My cousin, Nicole, sang the praises of their KFC and I have yet to forgive her for raising my expectations.

“Excuse me, Miss”, I said. “I ordered a breast.”

“That’s a breast”, replied the girl behind the counter. I turned to Nicole and she just shrugged.

“This is not a chicken breast”, I said.

“Yes it is,” the girl insisted.

I stared at the dehydrated breast, confused.

“Well, it’s all natural.” My cousin actually defended it. “No antibiotics.”

It was still too small by those standards.

“Nicole, you need to go home for a visit”, I replied. “You forgot what KFC looks like.”

I reluctantly bit into the…chest. My face dropped. “And I asked for spicy.”

“The spicy didn’t last long here”, she said. “The Brits complained it was too hot.”tumblr_myp8qm6O3T1qcrvmpo1_250I took two more bites to please her and headed to the nearest Chinese restaurant for some chicken wings.

I vacationed in Trinidad shortly after England almost ruined KFC for me and my faith was restored. As usual it was the first stop after leaving the airport and the last place I ate before I boarded the plane back to New York, with a five piece combo in my carry-on and a zinger sandwich in my handbag to eat on the plane. I turned my nose up at the dinner of curried chicken over white rice they served on the flight and enjoyed my sandwich in silence. I grinned with a mouth full of chicken as the woman sitting in front of me said, “I smell KFC.”

None for yuh!